Morgan Song's Ambience in Los Altos
STARRY-EYED MOVE: It's an overused phrase, for sure, but if past reviews are any indication, Sacramento's loss is the Peninsula's gain. Earlier this year, Morgan Song -- he's been called a world-class chef -- closed his highly rated restaurant in the capital's suburbs, where the economy has been slow to rebound, in favor of a move back to the Bay Area. (Diners may remember him from Rodin or Kiss in San Francisco. Our own David L. Beck gave Song a four-star review in 1995.)
"This is a significant loss to the local culinary scene," wrote Sacramento Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson, "as many food aficionados considered Song to be among the best, most precise and artistic chefs in the area. Almost all of his dishes were so beautifully plated you couldn't be blamed for staring instead of eating."
Song has reopened his Ambience in downtown Los Altos, and is again practicing his culinary artistry. His opening menu, an eight-course prix fixe with several choices, reflects his style of French-Asian fusion. (Not sure what to order? Robertson wrote that he would miss Song's sea bass, scallops and wild boar tenderloin with black rice, among other dishes.)
The Bay Area move for a chef of Song's caliber offers him even higher acclaim than he currently enjoys. As Robertson said, "I'm certain that if Michelin stretched its boundaries beyond the Bay Area and Napa Valley and rated Sacramento restaurants, too, Ambience would have been a contender for a Michelin star."
Details: Dinner served 5-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday. 132 State St., Los Altos. 650-917-9030; www.ambiencefinedininglosaltos.com.
"...as many food aficionados considered Song to be among the best, most precise and artistic chefs in the area. Almost all of his dishes were so beautifully plated you couldn't be blamed for staring instead of eating..."